One of the chief treasures of this ancient town in old Swabia is the town library. Actually, there are two libraries; the new, beautiful and glass walled, four-storey building on the pedestrian way in the center town, and the single, lovely room in the town hall where the survivors of wars, reformation, and rats are now housed in majestic simplicity.
Before I describe the books, I must tell you about how they are housed. To enter the old book room, the librarian opens a double, fire-proof, keyed door. The room is small, about 25 by 15 feet, and softly lighted. The graceful arched stone doorway into the room and another on the far side of the little room, leading to a workroom, draw the eye up to a single vaulted arch. The base of the arch seems to rest on top the walls. The vaulted ceiling is plastered white.
There are two levels of books circling the walls, and each level has five shelves, with the biggest books on the lowest and longest shelves. The top shelves on the balcony are shorter in length than the ones beneath so that the balcony shelves form their own arch up to the ceiling. To reach the balcony that circles three sides of the room, there are two open but banistered stairways, one on each side of the stone arch doorway. All of the books on each level may be reached by a person of average height. There are no ladders here.
The wooden bookshelves are painted a faded and rubbed apple green overtop a darker green. Painted onto the roof of the under-balcony is a geometric pattern in dark red and gold, and dark green. The floor of the balcony is edged with an elaborate crown molding, painted in the same colors, and with great restraint. The entire room is quietly, serenely elegant. In the center of the room is a long, narrow table of oak. What better place to spend hours hitting the books?
Books fill the shelves and are piled book upon book on the library table. The old books are facing spine-side out, and their covers are leather or parchment, and frequently leather-covered wood boards. Many of them are fastened closed with leather and iron clasps with intricate designs worked onto the metal surface. You can’t open a big book one clasp at a time. The way to open a great big volume is to slam your two hands down hard on the flat surface. The clasps will pop open for you.
These walls of ancient books blend their colors so that the impression is a wall of faded grey and taupe. These are very old books. The library at Schwabisch Hall has manuscripts dating from the 900s. The treasure room I was in held the books from the dawn of the age of printing, the very dawn. In fact many of these books were printed here, on paper made in the locality. Many books have gold gilt on the edges of the pages, top, bottom and side to keep moisture and insects from attacking the books side on.
The gilt edges have been tapped gently on with a small hammer and a fanciful pattern is stamped onto the gold. After the Reformation, many of the earliest hand-scribed manuscripts in Schwabisch Hall were torn apart and their parchment pages were reused, either buffed down and printed, or used to bind new books. Many small books printed after Martin Luther's time are bound in gorgeous pages of early church music, all red and black hand lettered notes writ large to be seen by a choir. Better to reuse the cursed stuff than burn it all.
The contents, you ask? I just shivered, and not just because it’s cold outside and I have all windows cracked open so I can listen to the merriment outside in the town Christmas market below my window at the town tower where I am staying. A while ago, a talented clarinetist was playing some American jazz and the international students were shouting out the words to When the Saints Go Marching In. Now, a single flute is singing carols of the season. There is laughter and conversation, and the music.
The books are a book drunkard’s dream. The books may weigh 30 pounds, for use in the library, while the smallest may be slipped in your cassock pocket for reading by candle light in your cold, bare cell. Come to Schwabisch Hall to look at small drawings made in the margins by the literate clergy. Feast on old maps showing the vast island of California of the coast of the New World. Read (if you can) the commentary to scripture, the scripture printed in a small center square of a double page that is mostly commentary. Look upon illustrations by Albrecht Durer—still in the book and not hanging on someone’s wall.
Page after page of richness and quietness, soft lights and reverence.
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